Bertoua is the capital of Cameroon’s East Region, serving as a gateway to the country’s dense forests and rural villages. Situated along the Yaoundé-Douala-Ngaoundéré highway, it is a city known for its relaxed atmosphere. Equally, it is simple yet has charming architecture,. No doubt, it offers access to some of the country’s most scenic landscapes.
While it may not be a major tourist hotspot, Bertoua offers a unique experience for travelers interested in exploring Cameroon’s less commercialized side. that is, it has a mix of cultural heritage, natural beauty, and local traditions.
This quiet city offers a glimpse into local life, nature, and culture that is hard to find elsewhere in the country. Whether you’re drawn to its peaceful streets, or the rich cultural heritage of its surrounding villages, Bertoua is full of surprises.
Here’s a closer look at my experience in Bertoua and the surrounding East Region.
Table of Contents
- Introduction to Bertoua
- The Journey to Bertoua
- Exploring the Sanaga River
- Discovering Belabo
- Village Life and Architecture
- Limited Transportation Options
- Strolling Through Bertoua’s City Center
- Shopping and Dining at SPAR
- Final Thoughts: Why Bertoua is Worth the Visit
The Journey to Bertoua
My adventure to Bertoua began in Yaoundé, where I boarded the Overline Bus Agency at the Mvan major bus station. The ride was advertised as a VIP comfort bus, priced at 7,500 XAF, which was a little surprising as the bus was more of a small van than the large, luxury buses I had imagined. However, it was surprisingly comfortable, with air conditioning and clean seats.
The road was in good condition, though it’s worth noting that many of Cameroon’s highways are narrow, with only two lanes. Despite this, the ride was smooth and relatively quick, though it didn’t come without a few inconveniences.
Unlike most VIP buses from the Southwest to Yaoundé, which offer food and drinks, this bus didn’t provide even a bottle of water during the 5-hour journey.
A Visit to the Sanaga River beside Bertoua
One of the highlights of my trip was the Sanaga River. The river itself is an important part of Cameroon’s geography, flowing through the East Region and serving as a crucial water source for locals. Though I had initially planned to visit a waterfall near Belabo, my inquiries at the hotel led to mixed answers. Some said it existed, others said it didn’t.
Determined, I took a bus to the small town of Belabo. The fare was just 1,500 XAF for a short, one-hour ride that quickly turned into a two-to-three-hour journey due to multiple stops along the way. The bus made regular stops at small villages, with passengers alighting frequently, which extended the trip.
When I finally reached Belabo, I was disappointed to learn that the waterfall was, in fact, a myth. However, my journey wasn’t in vain. I hired a local bike for 500 XAF to take me to the banks of the Sanaga River. In just 5 minutes, I was transported through a narrow road to the river’s edge.
Although the spot wasn’t ideal for a long stay (mosquitoes were everywhere), the peacefulness of the river made it worth the brief stop. I took a few pictures, noting the traditional wooden canoes and locals digging sand from the riverbed. The riverbank was tranquil but lacking any real recreational facilities. There were no chairs, and with no shelter, I didn’t stay long. If you do visit, wear long clothes to avoid the mosquitoes. And be cautious if you’re a foreigner—staying alone in such quiet areas might not be the safest option.
Discovering Belabo
Although my original plan didn’t work out, I was still glad I ventured to Belabo. This small town is home to an unexpected surprise: it’s the only place in the East where Cameroon’s railway system, CAMRAIL, operates. I was shocked to learn that you can board a train from cities like Douala, Yaoundé, or even Ngaoundéré to reach Belabo. Had I known about the train earlier, I could have saved myself hours of travel by road. For anyone heading to the East, I highly recommend taking the train—it’s a more convenient and comfortable option.
As for tourism, Belabo didn’t offer much to see. However, nature lovers will appreciate the surrounding evergreen forests that make this region so unique. The town itself looked much like other small towns in Cameroon, with modern cement houses and local businesses. While not a tourist hotspot, Belabo was still a rewarding stop on my journey.
Exploring Villages Along the Way
One of the most fascinating aspects of my trip was discovering the traditional villages along the way. As I traveled through the East Region, I marveled at the architecture of local homes. Unlike in the Southwest, where cement houses have become the norm, many people in the East still live in homes made of wood and sticks. These wooden houses are built using tree trunks as pillars and palm fronds as roofs. Some roofs were simple pleated palm leaves, though I suspect zinc was used underneath to protect from the heavy rains.
It was also interesting to see homes built from mud, a building material that’s rare elsewhere in the country. Many homes had open huts in front, built with wooden planks or sticks. These huts often had a roof but no walls, offering a cool spot to sit and relax. I noticed several of these huts had wooden benches on either side, where locals would gather to chat, drink, or even lie down during the afternoon heat. Some of these huts had a fireplace with three stones, suggesting that they also served as cooking areas.
Unfortunately, I didn’t have time to stop and engage with the locals, but it was clear that the villages maintained their traditional ways of life.
Limited Transportation Options
One thing I noticed was that transportation in the villages was quite limited. There were very few bus agencies in small towns along the road, and private cars were a rare sight. In fact, it would have been difficult to find a ride back to Bertoua if I had stopped at a village for a longer visit. If you plan to explore the area thoroughly, I highly recommend renting a private car. This will give you the flexibility to travel at your own pace and access parts of the region that are harder to reach by public transport.
Discover Bertoua’s City Center
Bertoua’s city center offers a refreshing contrast to the dusty, chaotic atmosphere of other cities. One of the most pleasant areas to explore is Carrefour Face-a-Face street. This wide, four-lane road is lined with trees and well-maintained, offering a peaceful place for a walk. The breeze on this street was particularly refreshing, providing a welcome change from the dry, dusty air of the surrounding areas. It’s an excellent place to soak in the calm vibe of Bertoua.
Shopping and Dining at SPAR
If you’re in need of some essentials or just want to relax with a meal, SPAR supermarket in Bertoua is the perfect stop. Located near the city center, this supermarket offers a wide range of goods at affordable prices. For example, bottled water that costs 400 XAF on the street is just 250 XAF at SPAR.
Though the supermarket’s restaurant section only offers fast food like burgers and sandwiches, I opted for fried chicken and fries. For 3,000 XAF, I got a leg and wing with a handful of crispy fries and a small soda. While the portion size was small for the price, the flavor made up for it. The chicken was coated with a delicious, crunchy crust, making the meal quite satisfying.
Final Thoughts: Why Bertoua is Worth the Visit
Bertoua and the surrounding East Region of Cameroon may not offer the traditional tourist attractions, but they provide a unique and peaceful experience for those willing to explore. From the tranquility of the Sanaga River to the traditional villages with their wooden houses and palm leaf roofs, Bertoua offers a window into Cameroon’s rich cultural heritage.
While there may be a lack of high-end tourist amenities, the natural beauty, authentic culture, and quiet atmosphere make Bertoua an unexpected but rewarding destination. If you love learning about new cultures and exploring less-traveled paths, Bertoua is definitely worth a visit.
If you’re intrigued by Bertoua and the wonders of Cameroon, be sure to explore more of our posts about this vibrant country and other fascinating destinations across Africa. From rich cultures to stunning landscapes, Africa offers endless adventures waiting to be discovered. Stay tuned for more travel insights and tips to help you plan your next unforgettable journey!
