If you’ve been thinking about visiting the renowned country of Ghana or planning a West African tour on a budget, here’s a cost-effective way to explore two countries without the expense of a flight. Landing in Togo, as I did, it took me just a week to discover this small French-speaking nation, visiting its key attractions. From Lomé, the capital of Togo, it’s a mere 10-minute journey to Ghana—a fact that initially seemed implausible to me but turned out to be true. Whether you’re intrigued by Ghana’s cultural richness or looking to expand your West African adventure, this Aflao border crossing offers a convenient and affordable way to experience a short road trip from Togo to Ghana seamlessly.
To travel to Ghana by land, start by taking a taxi, tricycle, or bike to the Aflao border. You can flag any of these on the road but I chose to try the transport app- GOZEM. From my experience, it was a quick 10-minute ride from the bustling Palm Beach main street in Lomé, Togo for only 700frs.
Upon arrival at the border, I was intrigued to see both men and women porters offering to carry luggage on their heads. They guided travelers through the immigration process from the Togolese side to the Ghanaian side. I opted to support a female porter with a payment of 2500 francs CFA. This was a token of appreciation for her patience, though you may negotiate a lower fee.
Everyone, whether an ECOWAS citizen with ID cards or foreigners with passports, is required to proceed on foot through this section.
How are the immigration officers at the Aflao border when you take a road trip from Togo to Ghana?
The Togolese immigration officers were friendly, engaging in light-hearted banter and bidding me farewell without conducting a bag search.
However, my experience with the Ghanaian immigration was less pleasant. I had overlooked pre-booking accommodation on Airbnb because there weren’t any listings either. Equally, I assumed, I could sort it upon arrival. I hastily made a reservation to complete my visa on arrival application. Shortly after, a visa officer insisted I pay $150 for the visa fee and an additional $50 for a service charge.
When I requested to pay in West African Francs instead of Ghanaian Cedi, the accountant demanded more money. Rushing to make it to work that evening, I didn’t verify the exchange rate and ended up overpaying by $70 due to the confusion. There’s no doubt, it was intentional for them to steal that money.
Despite assurances from an immigration officer to investigate the matter, I never received a follow-up.
Through conversations with local friends, I learned of the challenges faced by African travelers dealing with Ghanaian immigration. There are numerous stories including reports of bribery and discrimination. This was a disappointing revelation, highlighting the need for better transparency and fairness in border procedures. By far, this was my worst border crossing.
When I saw them jogging across the main road the next day, I was filled with so much disdain.
Lesson I learned on this road trip from Togo to Ghana
It’s advisable to apply for a visa beforehand. When planning to cross land borders, as this can often be more cost-effective and straightforward. By obtaining a visa in advance, travelers can avoid potential situations where immigration officers may pressure them into paying extra fees. Despite claims that airport immigration procedures differ, my experience suggests otherwise.
Unfortunately, corruption remains a significant issue in many parts of Africa. During my travels, I observed that individuals of Caucasian descent often received their visas promptly and without any complications. However, as an African traveler, I encountered indirect requests for bribes, highlighting systemic inequalities in the visa issuance process. Addressing these challenges is crucial for promoting fairness and transparency across all border crossings.
Where to rest in Aflao town
Aflao is a quaint border town shared between Ghana and Togo. There, both French and English are commonly spoken. Also, transactions can be conducted in either Cedi or Francs XOF. In need of a respite from the bustling pace and demands of my work schedule, I opted for a three-day retreat at the Shadda Hotel. This roadside establishment offers straightforward accommodations with amenities like air conditioning and fans. Opting for the affordable 100GHC room, I found everything I needed for a short stay.
The room was equipped with essentials typical of a hotel stay, including a robust mattress and a functional wardrobe. I particularly appreciated the consistent availability of water and electricity.. This allowed me to unwind and even draft this article from the spacious balcony on the third floor. From there, I enjoyed distant views of the sea. My favorite thing to do in the evenings was to savor the cool breeze that provided a refreshing respite from the city’s heat.
What can you eat in Aflao?
During my time in Aflao, dining options were limited, with only one notable restaurant and several small street-side vendors. One evening, I decided to try a rice and stew dish with fried chicken from the restaurant, priced at 25GHC. But I quickly regretted my choice. The stew had a bitter taste that didn’t sit well. In addition, the chicken was overly dry, making it difficult to chew. I ended up leaving most of it on the plate, grateful that at least the rice helped satisfy my hunger.
Before this disappointing meal, I had enjoyed delicious roasted plantain and soya bean brochettes from roadside vendors. Those were the highlight of my culinary experiences in the area. On another occasion, while traveling through Aflao, I came across a vendor selling boiled eggs sprinkled generously with salt. Apparently, this was done while they were still hot. Intrigued, I purchased one for 3cedis and found it surprisingly tasty. Whether it was due to the salt adhering to the egg or another factor, it was a unique treat that left an impression on me.
Check out future posts on how to travel from Aflao town to Accra city.
For more things to do in Ghana and other 17 countries, click this link.
