If you ever find yourself in West Africa with a thirst for a short adventure and a need to save some cash, I highly recommend taking a road trip from Togo to Benin.
Picture this: two countries, one epic journey, and countless unforgettable moments. This isn’t just a trip; it’s a story you’ll be telling for years.
Buckle up and let me take you on a whirlwind tour of my weird adventure, filled with quirky encounters, unexpected twists, and a good dose of fun.
Here’s everything you need to know to plan your own epic journey.
Setting off from Lome for my road trip from Togo to Benin
It all started in Lome, the bustling capital of Togo. I found myself standing by the main road near Palm Beach, scanning for a shared taxi.
I’d heard there were taxis near Santa Maria Hotel too, but I didn’t need to check—they were everywhere!
A fellow traveler once told me about a route through northern Togo to northern Benin, but I decided to stick with the more common southern route.
Negotiating the fare
When I arrived, I knew not to take the first price quoted. Before my trip, I’d consulted a Facebook travel group where some travelers said the fare should be around 10,000frs.
But here’s the twist: locals were quoting 6,000frs!
My Cameroonian French accent got me an initial quote of 8,000frs, but I knew better and we settled on the local rate. (As of March 2024, prices can change, so always check the current rates before traveling!)
The only and best way to do this is to ask random people before your trip. I asked 3 different taxi drivers and a few people from the market. They told me random prices but the majority said 6000. So l quoted it with confidence.
The waiting game for a road trip from Togo to Benin
Shared taxis in this part of the world have a little quirk—they don’t leave until they’re full. That means you have to wait for others to come. I was delightfully surprised to know this road trip from Togo to Benin would be relaxed as there were only three passengers in the back and one in the front. In Cameroon and some other African countries, the norm is 4 passengers behing and two infront.
So, there I was, waiting and making new friends until we were ready to roll. In less than an hour the taxi was full. Maybe because I arrived there as early as 8am. It wasn’t a long typical wait I had anticipated.
Once we were packed in, we set off for the Togolese border, about an hour away.
Border crossing drama during my road trip from Togo to Benin
The taxis cross the border seamlessly, but for foreigners like me, it’s a bit more complicated. I had to walk to the immigration offices under the scorching sun.
After a police checkpoint where they checked my bags and forced me to give a 500frs (almost a $1) bribe, I found the Togolese and Benin immigration offices in the same building, each with its own window.
With my single-entry visa, the Togolese officer stamped my exit.
Then came a surprise at the Benin immigration corner—they asked for 2,000frs ($3) for a visa. As a Cameroonian, I wasn’t expecting this because Cameroon and Benin have a visa free agreement. I tried to remind the immigration officer about the law. He shot me an angry look, handed back my passport without a word, and told me to disappear. I was in shock for a minute, until I noticed he was asking everyone for the same thing. Apparently, it wasn’t anything out of the ordinary. My disappointment must have been written all over my face; I couldn’t hide my disgust.
5 minutes later, I handed over the cash and got my stamps with a breeze.
Bribery is not what l would encourage or be happy to do but here, the Benin immigration are reputed for asking extra money whether a traveler needs a visa or not. I sincerely felt unhappy giving the money though it was smarller than the Ghanian immigration who stole $70 extra. Check out what happened to me in Ghana on this post.
I shared this illegal and shameful detail as a warning. Many other travelers corroborated this unfortunate situation too so expect it, if you are about to take this short trip.
The hidden car park panic
After dealing with the paperwork, I hurried on foot to the Benin side. Panic set in when I couldn’t see our car, fearing the driver had left with my luggage. A border guard reassured me, and soon enough, I spotted my fellow passengers waving from a hidden car park a few meters away. Phew!
The tip l recommend here is to take a picture of the car in Lome. There are several similar cars moving around this area so a picture of the number plate will save you alot. It’s also safer to take a picture of the driver in secret if you can. Apparently those driver ply that road daily so, if anything happens, the border police will identify them easily.
Onward to Cotonou
Back in the car, we drove for another 2-3 hours before reaching the lively city of Cotonou. The whole trip took nearly 4 hours, but it was worth every minute.
There’s nothing extraordinary on the way to see. Most parts were covered in vegetation. We could only hear the sounds of birds.
Surprisingly the road was fairly smooth. This made the driver to drive very fast. We passed a few small villages but l felt awkward to ask their names.
The Return Journey: Benin to Togo
A few days later, it was time to head back to Togo.
Days before l started my trip from Benin, l engaged on a random conversation with a roadside vendor while enjoying refreshing coconut.
I asked other people too (my Airbnb host, bike rider) where to find a shared taxi to Lome. They directed me to Gogomeh CEG, a street corner within the city.
The day l had to leave, it was the most stressful. Before this day, l had noticed there were no taxis on the road round Fidjrossè beach where l lived, but l didn’t know it will impact me so much when l have to go. Thoughout my stay, I had been using bikes to go around the city.
Regretably, I had two relatively big bags so l couldn’t get a bike. Though, there was an option to hire two bikes, I was unwilling to bare the risk.
How did I solve the situation?
I went to the GOZEM office, an Uber-like service, to hire a car a day before. I was sadly informed, l couldn’t because users must download the app. This download is only completed if you have a Benin phone number.
For the strangest reason, this was the only country l had issues buying a sim card. I had gone to a roadside MTN communication company stall, waited for almost an hour but was informed my passport couldn’t be registered. They told me l needed to go to their head office, which will only be open several days later.
I knew l wouldn’t spend a week there so it was irrelevant to waste my precious work time standing/ waiting in an office.
Back to the travel gist, on the morning of my trip, l went to the office determined to cry if they didn’t help. The morning guard pitied me, maybe because l was a foreigner.
He called a tricycle driver who made me wait an extra 40 mins before coming. This loud and rude driver insisted on a 1500frs ($3) an extra 500frs from the initial agreement.
I share this as a recommendation, buy a sim card or park light so you can use a motorbike. I regret carrying a lot of luggage.
After a lengthy conversation about his country, he proposed to take me to another car park beside Red Star Square– a famous historical landmark somewhere probably in the middle of Cotonou. I accepted the proposal but regretted.
I spent nearly four boring hours waiting. I’m not sure if it was just that day or if fewer people travel from Cotonou to Lome. My best suggestion is to hire a private car or dare to hitchhike. Maybe it would’ve been better at Gogomeh, but I had no way of knowing that.
Embracing the adventure
A road trip from Togo to Benin is an adventure filled with unique experiences, from haggling over taxi fares to navigating border crossings.
Yes, there can be unexpected fees and delays, but they’re all part of the journey. So, if you’re not heading to Nigeria like many other travelers, why not try my route from Benin to Togo? Embrace the vibrant energy of West Africa, and happy travels!
