Benin, a small West African country is slowly becoming a tourist destination. It has produced notable talents like Angélique Kidjo, a Beninese-French singer-songwriter and actress. While I may not know all her songs or follow her closely, it’s hard to deny her impact, especially with old hits like “Wombo Lombo.” Her powerful voice and stylish African prints embody the essence of Benin’s rich cultural heritage and serve as a symbol of pride for the entire continent. During my West African journey, I felt compelled to visit Cotonou, considering its proximity to Lome, Togo. Here’s an interesting tale of how my accommodation experience was. 

I promptly booked my first Airbnb after I was disappointed by a Couchsurfing host in Cotonou. The details of that tale will be in another post. Airbnb, Inc. is an American company operating an online marketplace for short-and-long-term homestays and experiences in various countries and regions. The company acts as a broker and charges a commission from each booking . My first host quickly accepted my request, answered a few questions and was willing to allow me come over within short notice. I was extremely excited when I boarded the tricycle to the beach area in Fidjrosse.

How was my first accommodation experience?

The house I entered was dirty beyond expectation; the stench emanating from the staircase and kitchen was nauseating, nothing like the tidy pictures portrayed on the App. Despite the host’s description of it being a family home where she lived with her two children, the reality was far from the inviting atmosphere I had hoped for.

Upon entering my room, my dismay only grew. Despite its spaciousness and unique cane-knitted bed, which I appreciated for its design, the room was very dark and dull. Equally, the lack of promised amenities quickly became apparent. The host had advertised high-speed Wi-Fi suitable for online work, yet when I requested the access code, she claimed not to have it. This blatant dishonesty soured my initial optimism. Despite her offer to share her mobile hotspot, she turned it off after 10 pm, disrupting my work and leaving me frustrated and exhausted.

How was the food at the restaurant?

Before retiring for the night, my hunger pangs demanded attention, forcing me to seek sustenance. Too exhausted to venture far in search of restaurants, I stumbled upon what I presumed to be the living room, only to discover it was actually a restaurant. This revelation surprised me; it was a public space serving beer, wine, and other items not disclosed on the host’s profile.

This deception further eroded my trust. Speechless with shock, I reluctantly ordered mouton (sheep meat) and fries. Moments later, I was served potatoes lacking crunch, alongside over-fried slices of mouton meat and a mix of peas and carrots. Upon first glance, it was evident the potatoes were fried in old oil, undercooked, and unseasoned. Disappointed, I regretted spending 2500frs on such a flavorless meal.

My dismay continued upon discovering the bathroom and toilet facilities, described as private and inside, were in fact public and located outside the room. The bathroom was unkempt, with dust accumulating everywhere, an oil-laden bucket of standing water, and a rusty shower. While I understand the practice of bucket showers common in many African settings, I expected better maintenance for the price I paid, nearing $15.

My accommodation experience on the second day

The following Saturday morning dawned brightly, starting off on a positive note. I requested my host to share her hotspot while I positioned myself in a corner of the restaurant near the window, seeking the fresh air. She obliged, and I settled down to work.

However, just before my third lesson at 11 am, she abruptly announced she needed to leave with her phone to obtain a WiFi router, citing discomfort with me using her phone. Her tone and manner were disrespectful, leaving me frustrated and bewildered. I had no choice but to relocate to a nearby restaurant to continue my work, despite the noise and distractions.

I returned around midday, relieved when she finally provided the WiFi password. Initially, everything seemed fine as I successfully accessed various web pages. However, my optimism was short-lived; by 9 pm, when I attempted to conduct a class requiring video calls, the WiFi proved inadequate for the task. Frustrated and disappointed, I had to cancel the class, informing her of the situation. She appeared surprised by my decision.

Realizing the WiFi issue was insurmountable for my work needs, I made the tough decision at 10 pm to cancel my Airbnb reservation, fully aware I wouldn’t receive a full refund for the remaining 4 days. I received confirmation of the cancellation and pleaded with her to allow me to stay the night due to the late hour and my need to secure alternative accommodation. Although she agreed, she was clearly upset by my departure. Despite her understanding, the inability to work effectively was my primary concern.

As the night slowly passed, I woke early and hastily arranged another Airbnb booking, grateful that she permitted me to stay the night, albeit against Airbnb’s regulations for cancellations.

What was strange about this accommodation experience?

However, a peculiar and unsettling encounter occurred when I approached her later about where to leave the keys. Unlike the previous morning when she was dressed and responsive, she appeared disheveled, wearing only a chest wrapper, seemingly with something in her mouth while mixing wood ash in a small bowl.

Her muttered words and dismissive gestures unnerved me deeply, sending chills down my spine. It felt ominous and unsettling. Despite my inquiry about the keys, she responded with an angry glare and refused to answer, waving me away in a disrespectful manner. Feeling uneasy, I hastily departed the building to await my ride from the new host.

Everything I saw was a sign of witchcraft. Black magic is the practice of magic, especially for evil purposes; the use of spells. Sorcery is very common in Benin as I had heard but I didn’t expect I would have to see it for real on broad day light. She looked really dreadful. I think when she stormed out the previous night at 11pm when I canceled, she probably went to see a sorcerer. Keep reading below, you’ll see why I said this.

My second accommodation experience

For a brief moment, I felt a wave of relief and gratitude towards my new host, a gentleman who generously offered to pick me up in his car from the same neighborhood. Despite his apparent unease and sadness, he refused my offer to pay for the favor, insisting he was simply being kind.

First and foremost, the internet speed at the new place was exactly what I needed, allowing me to work, watch videos, and even upload content to my website without issues. However, my main phone, a TCL model I had used in various Airbnbs and countries before, inexplicably refused to connect to the WiFi here. Despite checking all settings, it stubbornly remained disconnected.

Even my new host was puzzled when he noticed that every other nearby network signal was visible except the one in his house. This was extremely strange to the both of us. This man- an IT engineer did everything related to networks but for nearly 20mins, this phone refused to connect to the wifi. It was practically useless. I had held it on my hand a few minutes earlier when I left that lady’s house.

How did I resolve the situation?

Thankfully, I always travel with a backup phone, an old one, which connected to the WiFi here immediately. This strange turn of events made me suspect a bizarre connection between the odd behavior of my former Airbnb host that morning and my phone’s sudden WiFi issues. It may sound overly suspicious, but the timing was too coincidental: my main tool for work suddenly rendered ineffective just after leaving her place because of internet issues. Benin’s reputation for voodoo beliefs and witchcraft crossed my mind, especially considering her unexpected departure the previous night and her eerie demeanor the following morning. It seemed like she had consulted a ritualist to ensure she didn’t speak to me, potentially to disrupt my work and cause frustration.

To confirm my suspicions, as soon as I arrived in Togo some 5 days later and inserted my Togolese SIM card back into my main TCL phone, it connected to the network and functioned perfectly. It became clear that her actions were intended to hinder my ability to work while in Benin. Luckily, I had my laptop as a backup too, so I managed to continue working despite the phone issue. This unsettling experience prompted me to shorten my stay in Benin.

How was the new place?

The new Airbnb was located in a residential area with a few nearby restaurants, although I had to take a long walk to find one on occasion. Comparatively, I had a fairly better accommodation experience. One evening, my host kindly prepared fried spaghetti for me, for which I was grateful. I really loved the unique design of the living room. My room was big, with just a bed, desk, chair and closet. The gigantic bed had a soft and cozy mattress. The streets to this area was also calm and quiet.

However, there were notable drawbacks to this place. The host was unwilling to fix the bathroom light, which had not been working since before my arrival, despite my bringing it to his attention. Additionally, the kitchen was the dirtiest I had ever encountered. The overflowing trash can attracted ants, and dirty plates sat in standing water for over four days, emitting a foul stench throughout the kitchen area. It was so unpleasant that I avoided cooking altogether, despite having access to a kitchen.

Conclusion

After leaving, I wrote an honest review of my experience on the host’s profile. In response, he retaliated with curses and insults directed at me, even threatening physical harm. This unwarranted aggression prompted me to report him to Airbnb support for harassment, urging them to address his behavior towards future guests.

Regrettably, my interactions with these two individuals left me with the impression that some Beninese can be among the rudest people I’ve encountered in all my travels across some African countries. Their demeanor suggested an expectation that I owed them something, which added to the discomfort and frustration of my stay.

Final discalimer, I am not writing this post to discourage anyone from visiting Benin. This is just to share my accommodation experience. Absolutely, there are numerous Airbnbs and hotels with quality services. For privacy reasons, I didn’t share the details of these places . I still have chills writing this but I am sincerely grateful for God’s protection. Somehow, i felt it could have been worse.

Check out this link to see things you can do in Cotonou and other parts of the world.