The Standard Gauge Railway (SGR) in Kenya, specifically the Nairobi to Mombasa line, has revolutionized Kenya’s transportation landscape since its inauguration in 2017.

As the primary modern rail link between the bustling capital Nairobi and the coastal city of Mombasa, the SGR has become a popular mode of travel for locals and tourists alike.

With its modern infrastructure, scenic views, and affordability, the SGR provides an experience that contrasts starkly with traditional road or air travel in Kenya.

Here’s my 2022 review of what this journey entails, along with useful insights for travelers considering this option.

All the terminals were exceptionally clean and well-maintained, giving me the feeling of being in a developed country. I commend the Kenyan government for their efforts in upholding their infrastructure.

When was the Nairobi to Mombasa train built?

The SGR project, funded largely by China, is a significant infrastructure achievement, replacing the old meter-gauge railway that dated back to the colonial era.

The train covers 472 kilometers (293 miles) between Nairobi and Mombasa, reducing travel time to approximately 4.5 to 6 hours compared to a potentially unpredictable 8-12 hour road journey.

Train Options: Madaraka Express

The SGR offers two distinct types of services: the express and the inter-county trains. I used the Madaraka express and the time was respected.

• The Madaraka Express runs non-stop from Nairobi to Mombasa in about 4.5 hours. It’s the quickest option for those who prioritize time over stops.
• The Inter-county Service takes around 6 hours as it makes several stops at key towns including Athi River, Emali, Kibwezi, Mtito Andei, Voi, and Mariakani. This option provides an opportunity to see more of Kenya’s interior and interact with passengers from different regions.

The terminal in Nairobi was very large. It’s almost like an airport.

Booking and Classes

Tickets for the SGR can be purchased through various channels:

• Online via the Kenya Railways website or mobile apps.
• In person at train stations in Nairobi and Mombasa, as well as at intermediary stations along the route.

I attempted to pay online but was unable to do so because it required the use of Mpesa, Kenya’s popular mobile payment system. Although I had a local phone number, I hadn’t set up Mpesa, knowing I’d only be in the country for a month and didn’t want to risk having difficulty withdrawing my money. Instead, I decided to buy my ticket in person. The process was straightforward, with nearly 10 counters where tellers accept cash and provide a physical ticket.

There are two classes available:

• Economy class, which is affordable and comfortable, with seats arranged in a 3×2 configuration. It’s ideal for budget travelers or those looking for a more casual experience.
• First class, a bit more luxurious, features wider seats in a 2×2 arrangement, more legroom, and access to onboard refreshments. Passengers here also enjoy a quieter, more relaxed atmosphere.

The prices vary depending on the season and class, but the general fare is around Ksh 1,000 (about $7) for economy class and Ksh 3,000 (around $20) for first class, making it a cost-effective travel choice.

For the sake of comfort, I opted for first class. While it wasn’t as exceptional as I had anticipated, it was reasonably comfortable. The seats were a bit worn, but I did appreciate the red color scheme.

Scenery: A Moving Gallery of Kenya’s Landscapes

One of the key attractions of taking the SGR is the chance to experience Kenya’s stunning landscapes.

Starting from Nairobi’s urban sprawl, the train passes through the Athi plains, offering wide-open savannah views dotted with wildlife like zebras and antelopes.

As the train approaches Tsavo National Park, one of the largest wildlife reserves in the world, it’s not uncommon to spot elephants, giraffes, and other wildlife from your window.

Travelers can enjoy watching the gradual transition from the dry highlands of central Kenya to the lush coastal region around Mombasa. The train’s large windows provide excellent visibility, making it a photographer’s dream and a relaxing way to take in the country’s diverse ecology.

I really enjoyed the dry landscape as we departed from Nairobi—it reminded me of Northern Cameroon. I managed to snap a few pictures before dozing off. Unfortunately, I missed the scenic views that so many other bloggers have raved about.

Onboard Experience

The SGR’s coaches are modern, air-conditioned, and clean, offering passengers a pleasant ride. Amenities include:

• Cafeteria service, where snacks and drinks can be purchased (cash and mobile payments are accepted). I didn’t see this section. I don’t remember exactly how long it took, but at some point, we saw hostesses walking around with a trolley, much like on a plane, selling food. I was surprised we had to buy our own meals, as I assumed that, being VIP clients, food would be included in the higher fare. My sisters and I opted for a basic British breakfast and a few simple dishes since it was early in the morning, and we just needed something light. The food tasted fine to me, and while I don’t recall the exact prices, I do remember it was quite affordable.
• Restrooms are available in each coach and are generally well-maintained throughout the trip. It was simple and clean.
• Power outlets in first class allow passengers to charge their electronic devices, making the trip convenient for those who need to work or entertain themselves on the go.

The train departs punctually, and security is a priority, with screenings at stations similar to airport-style checks. Both Nairobi and Mombasa stations are modern, well-organized, and equipped with ample waiting areas.

Timing and Travel Tips

The SGR operates several times a day, with schedules typically starting in the morning. The Express service often departs early, around 8:00 am, while the Inter-county service offers more flexible timings.

Here are some tips for making the most of your journey:

• Book in advance during peak travel seasons, especially around holidays, as tickets sell out quickly.
• Arrive early at the station (at least 30 minutes before departure) to go through security checks and find your platform.
• Bring snacks and entertainment, especially if you’re traveling in economy class, as the ride can feel long without them. Though refreshments are available, having your own is always a good idea.

For a safe and hassle-free trip from Mombasa to your destination, I highly recommend booking a transport company in advance. At the Mombasa terminal, several bus companies are lined up outside, offering rides to different parts of the coastal region.

We arranged our transport ahead of time and paid a reasonable fee to get to Watamu, Malindi. The driver was waiting for us when we arrived, helped with our bags, and took us directly to the doorstep of our lodge. The terminal is oddly far from the main road, so if you’re unfamiliar with Mombasa, finding transportation into the city can be quite challenging.

Check later for my post in Watamu.

Environmental Impact and Future Expansion

The SGR has not only cut down travel times but also reduced road traffic congestion and pollution along the busy Nairobi-Mombasa corridor. It is part of Kenya’s broader vision to improve infrastructure and stimulate economic growth, particularly by enhancing cargo transportation efficiency between the port of Mombasa and Nairobi’s industrial hub.

In the future, the SGR network is expected to extend to Uganda and other neighboring countries, further boosting regional connectivity and trade.

Conclusion

The SGR Nairobi to Mombasa train ride offers an efficient, scenic, and affordable travel experience that has transformed the way people move between Kenya’s two largest cities. Whether you’re a tourist looking to enjoy Kenya’s breathtaking landscapes or a local commuter seeking a reliable mode of transportation, the SGR is an excellent option.

It’s not just a train ride; it’s an opportunity to witness Kenya’s rich natural beauty unfold, all while enjoying the comfort of modern rail travel.

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