In 2024, I took a land trip from Cameroon to Equatorial Guinea hoping to explore one of Central Africa’s least-visited countries using my CEMAC passport. Cameroon, known for its diverse cultures and landscapes, shares a southern border with Equatorial Guinea, a small but oil-rich nation along the Atlantic coast. With the promise of visa-free travel between CEMAC states, I expected a smooth journey across the border. What I didn’t expect was the string of surprises and challenges that unfolded along the way.

Table of Contents

1. CEMAC Passport: What It’s Supposed to Guarantee
2. Stage 1: Getting to Ebolowa from Yaoundé
3. Stage 2: Traveling to Kye-Ossi (Cameroon’s Border Town)
4. Arriving in Kye-Ossi – And Heading to the Border
5. Immigration Troubles: Border Closed to Cameroonians?
6. Meeting the Equatorial Guinea Border Officers
7. Canceling My Exit Stamp: A Mini Nightmare
8. Lessons Learned and Warnings for Travelers
9. Final Thoughts: Was It Worth It?

Cameroon to Equatorial Guinea CEMAC Passport: What It’s Supposed to Guarantee

I wanted to visit Equatorial Guinea and thought a land trip would be easier and cheaper, especially since I hold a CEMAC passport. I love traveling by road as it gives me the chance to admire nature and appreciate cultural diversity. What was supposed to be a smooth entry into another Central African country turned out to be one of the most unpleasant border experiences I’ve had.

Citizens of Cameroon, Chad, Congo, Gabon, CAR, and Equatorial Guinea enjoy free movement under CEMAC regulations, which means visa-free entry among member countries. That’s the theory. In practice, things can be different.

Stage 1 from Cameroon to Equatorial Guinea: Getting to Ebolowa from Yaoundé

I took a car from the Galaxie Agency in Yaoundé to Ebolowa for 2,500 FCFA. The journey took about 2 hours and 30 minutes, and the roads were good. I was told that the president of Cameroon is from that region, which explains the better infrastructure. I found a modest motel just behind the bus station and rested for the night.

Stage 2 from Cameroon to Equatorial Guinea: Traveling to Kye-Ossi (Cameroon’s Border Town)

I took another car the next morning at 8 a.m. with Dynamique Express. Although Google Maps estimated the trip to take only 1 hour, it actually took 2 hours and 45 minutes because of bad roads and potholes. We passed through Ambam, a town with German colonial history. Apart from that, it looked like many other towns in Cameroon, with people selling grilled fish, snacks, and bushmeat along the roadside.

Arriving in Kye-Ossi – And Heading to the Border

Kye-Ossi is a border town located in the South Region of Cameroon, near the tri-point where Cameroon, Equatorial Guinea, and Gabon meet. Known for its bustling border activity, it serves as a key transit point for travelers and traders heading from Cameroon to Equatorial Guinea by road. Despite its modest size, Kye-Ossi plays a significant role in cross-border movement within the CEMAC region.

The car dropped us at the Kye-Ossi main market. A local lady in the car told me to take a motorbike to the actual border, which cost me 200 FCFA. I arrived at the Cameroonian immigration side, and that’s where the drama began.

Immigration Troubles: Border Closed to Cameroonians?

The immigration officers told me that Equatorial Guinea had closed its land border to Cameroonians. I was surprised because I’d read online that we could enter visa-free. The officers still charged me 2,000 FCFA to “register” me at the border. One of them warned me that EG officers would demand 50,000 FCFA to let me in.

Meeting the Equatorial Guinea Border Officers

I walked to the Equatoguinean side and was shocked to see that no officer could speak English or French—only Spanish. I tried to explain I was a tourist, but the officer simply said “no Cameroonians” and waved me away. He wouldn’t even speak directly to me again.

Canceling My Exit Stamp: A Mini Nightmare

I returned to the Cameroonian side and politely asked if it was possible to cancel the exit stamp on my passport. One officer directed me to the police station, but they turned me away. When I went back to the immigration post, a senior officer began scolding the junior officer who had stamped me out without proper checks. After some tense moments, they eventually stamped me back into Cameroon.

Lessons Learned and Warnings for Travelers

• Cameroonian border officials can be very rude, especially if you’re Anglophone. Most of them don’t follow professional conduct.
• Expect to pay bribes or fees like 2,000 FCFA for “registration,” even though there’s no official receipt.
• The Equatorial Guinea land border may be closed to Cameroonians, even with a CEMAC passport.
• Flying might be a better option if you want to enter EG without stress. Some people report smoother entry via airports.
• The EG government has had a bad relationship with Cameroon, especially after reports of Cameroonian criminals entering via the land border.

Final Thoughts: Was It Worth It?

This was honestly one of the worst travel experiences I’ve had at a border. I don’t recommend trying to enter Equatorial Guinea by road from Cameroon, at least not for now. If you must go, try flying or make sure you confirm the land border status beforehand.

Enjoyed this story? Don’t forget to check out my older posts for more border travel experiences, visa tips, and real stories from West and Central Africa. There’s so much more to explore!