The thrill of a night bus trip from Rwanda to Uganda is hard to beat. Shadows of mountains and valleys melt into the dark as the bus rumbles on through the border, across new lands. Before I narrate the details of my trip, I will first tell you a bit about Rwanda and Uganda.
Rwanda, known as the “Land of a Thousand Hills,” is a small but stunningly beautiful country in East-Central Africa. Famous for its lush mountains, verdant valleys, and vibrant wildlife, especially its endangered mountain gorillas, Rwanda has become a beacon of conservation and resilience.
Kigali, the capital city, is one of Africa’s cleanest and most modern cities, a symbol of the country’s remarkable transformation since the 1994 genocide. With a rich cultural heritage, welcoming locals, and breathtaking landscapes, Rwanda offers a unique and inspiring travel experience. Check my old posts for things to do in this tiny country.
On the other hand, Uganda, often referred to as the “Pearl of Africa,” is a landlocked country in East Africa renowned for its diverse landscapes and abundant wildlife. With lush rainforests, the majestic Lake Victoria, and the snow-capped Rwenzori Mountains, Uganda offers stunning natural beauty at every turn.
The country is home to half of the world’s remaining mountain gorillas, drawing travelers eager to trek through Bwindi Impenetrable Forest for a glimpse of these incredible creatures. Its vibrant capital, Kampala, blends modern development with a rich cultural heritage, while traditional music, dance, and hospitality showcase the warmth of Uganda’s people.
Here’s how my 2022 adventure unfolded, the sights and sounds I witnessed, and some tips for anyone looking to take this nocturnal journey from Rwanda to Uganda.
Setting Off from Rwanda to Uganda
I arrived at the Nyabugogo Bus Station in Kigali, Rwanda, with my ticket in hand, ready for the overnight journey to Kampala. The bustling station was alive with people headed in every direction, and I could see the Trinity Bus Agency booth among the others. I’d heard Trinity offered a reliable and comfortable ride, so I’d booked in advance.
The ticket was around 30,000 Rwandan Francs, a fair price for the 10-hour trip across the border. As I boarded, I felt a surge of excitement — I was finally on my way from Rwanda to Uganda.
It was late. The city lights of Kigali were fading as I boarded the bus. The bus conductor asked if there were any non-East African travelers on board and insisted on checking passports in advance. I showed mine, and after a quick review, I was cleared to board.
Bags secured, and ticket in hand, I felt the usual excitement mixed with a touch of nerves. The crowd was lively, yet calm, a shared quiet anticipation among us as we settled into our seats. I had a window seat. Perfect for glimpsing the passing countryside, I thought, even if most of it would be in darkness.
I heard there are several reputable bus companies that operate on this route too, including Jaguar, and Modern Coast, offering a range of comfort levels for passengers. The journey typically costs between 20,000 and 30,000 Rwandan Francs (approximately $16 to $25 USD), depending on the bus company and class of service chosen.
Rolling Through the Dark from Kigali to Kampala
The bus rolled out of Kigali, and the landscape shifted almost immediately. The sounds of the city vanished, replaced by the quiet of open road.
Sometimes, we would pass small villages, their lights glowing softly. I watched as trees changed sizes and shapes.
From my seat, I could feel every rise and fall of Rwanda’s endless hills and valleys. Some hills were so steep, my heart started racing – almost like the bus might tumble backward at any moment! Maybe it’s just my fear of heights, but Rwanda really is a country that climbs and dips like no other.
And oh, the bumps! The road was sprinkled with speed bumps, each one a rude little jolt. Just as I’d start to drift off, another bump would launch me right out of my seat, making sleep nothing but a dream.
The road twisted and turned, full of surprise leaps and jolts, so that staying still was its own wild adventure. To my Rwandan and Ugandan friends out there, please, tell me in the comments – what’s with all these speed bumps?
What was the most surprising part about this trip?
As if the constant bumps weren’t enough to keep me wide-eyed, we made an unexpected stop that nearly doubled my heartbeat. Somewhere on a steep hill in the middle of nowhere, the driver pulled over. I could only guess what was wrong since he spoke in rapid Kinyarwanda, but from his expression and the way he went straight to the aread beside the tires, something wasn’t working as it should.
He stepped out, took a quick look around, and then – to my surprise – slid right under the bus, right near my seat. Meanwhile, I peered out the window, and what did I see?
Absolutely nothing. No house lights, no village in sight, just pitch-black hills stretching endlessly.
For a moment, the eeriness crept in, and I thought, “This could only happen in Africa.” Mechanics here have that hands-on, “we’ll fix it on the go” style that I’ve seen back home in Cameroon, where bus inspections are sometimes, well, optional.
I sent up a quiet prayer, hoping he’d sort it out, as I wasn’t ready for a full night on that narrow, lonely hill. Mercifully, after a tense while, he re-emerged, mission accomplished, and we were back on the road!
Midnight at the border between Rwanda and Uganda
We reached the border around midnight. Everyone gathered their hand luggages and shuffled out, passports in hand for non-East Africans like me and East African passport or national identity cards for East Africans.
The differences between Uganda and Rwanda were hilariously clear right from the immigration offices. The Rwandan side was pristine – I mean, spotless. The immigration officers looked like they were straight out of a professional magazine, their faces serious but polite. For non-African travelers like me, they asked just two or three questions, mostly about the entry stamps in my passport. Smiles were rare, appearing only after that coveted stamp was stamped.
The officer handling my passport seemed fascinated by my nationality. He asked, “Cameroon? Twice?” and flipped through my passport a few times, probably double-checking if I’d made a mistake. He admitted they rarely saw Cameroonians on that road, so naturally, I told him my “travel blogger” reason, which seemed to impress him. He smiled, told me I could come back anytime, and I stepped out with a grin, only to discover the bus had already crossed into Uganda.
What was my experience at the Ugandan immigration?
Now, the fun began. On the Rwandan side, there was no massive barrier, just a few police officers lingering around, giving the place a surprisingly relaxed vibe. I walked across to the Ugandan side, where the contrast was immediate. The noise hit me first – people talking loudly, the chaos of movement everywhere. Trash littered the floor in a way that made me nostalgic for the tidiness of Rwanda. The immigration office was much bigger, with officers hustling back and forth, shouting to each other in a language I later learned was Luganda.
The first officer who greeted me had a smile, but his look of confusion told me he immediately pegged me as a non-East African. He asked me one question, scribbled down my details in a giant ledger, and waved me to another office. With a quick wish for a safe trip to Kampala, I was on my way, ready for the next chapter of my journey!
Once we cleared customs, we re-boarded, a bit colder and a bit more awake than before.
The visa tale
When it comes to visas, I highly recommend getting an East African visa instead of just a Rwandan visa. As a Cameroonian, we don’t need a visa to enter Rwanda; we’re granted a 30-day tourist visa on arrival. However, since I was planning to explore the entire region, I didn’t specifically request a Rwandan visa. Instead, I went for the East African visa, which covers multiple countries in the region, making travel smoother and more convenient.
The East African Visa is a multi-entry visa that allows travelers to visit three East African countries – Rwanda, Uganda, and Kenya – on a single visa. This visa is valid for 90 days and is a convenient option for those planning to explore the region without the hassle of applying for separate visas for each country. It can be obtained at any of the three countries’ consulates or upon arrival at designated entry points, making it an ideal choice for regional travelers. The East African Visa simplifies travel across these vibrant countries with a single permit.
Arrival at Dawn
As the bus drove further into Uganda, the terrain changed. I could sense we were climbing. The trees were denser, taller. Stars shone brighter here, away from city lights. Sleep eluded me; the bus’s gentle sway combined with the excitement of being in new territory kept me wide awake. Other passengers were sleeping, but I kept my gaze on the outside, looking for any sign of the wild landscape I’d read so much about.
The first signs of dawn were emerging as we neared Kampala. The night journey was almost over. I felt a sense of accomplishment and relief. The bus pulled into the city just as the sun was rising, casting a warm glow over the buildings and streets. After a night on the road, I had finally made it from Rwanda to Uganda.
How is Kampala?
Kampala is a whirlwind of energy, where the streets are always buzzing with chaotic traffic, honking cars, and motorbikes zipping through every gap. The city’s vibrant markets, loud music, and colorful street vendors add to the madness, making it feel like a nonstop carnival.
Before arriving in Kampala, I’d booked a BnB and made sure to tell the manager I was a foreigner. I asked for a clear address and a phone number, but as expected, they didn’t have a Google map location. So, we made a plan: I’d check in early and call him when I arrived. I called at 7 am when the bus pulled in, but his directions were awful.
I ended up asking the bus crew for help. They didn’t know the area either, but one kind bus assistant agreed to walk with me. We went down an alley, where he gave the taxi driver my phone. The driver answered the call with a blank stare while speaking in Luganda. The assistant snatched my phone back, spoke quickly in Luganda, and warned the driver to be careful with me.
When we went back to grab my bags, the assistant told me some Ugandans can be tricky, especially when they see a foreigner. Not long after, I found out why! Check out my old and future posts about my quick stay in Uganda to find out more.
Tips for a Night Bus Trip from Rwanda to Uganda
1. Be Prepared with Documents: Border crossing is the main formality, so have your passport and any necessary visas ready to avoid delays.
2. Carry Snacks and Water: Small towns have vendors, but snacks can be pricey. Stock up before you leave.
3. Bring Warm Clothing: The night air gets chilly, especially near the border and higher elevations.
4. Don’t Expect Sleep: The excitement of the journey and occasional bumps might keep you awake. Rest up before you go.
5. Stay Alert and Aware: You’ll meet all kinds of people on a trip from Rwanda to Uganda. Be open, but keep your valuables secure.
Final Thoughts
Taking a night bus from Rwanda to Uganda is an experience in itself. The quiet roads, the sleepy villages, and the slow unfolding of two East African countries through the night make this journey unforgettable.
For those seeking adventure, a hint of mystery, and the thrill of a new day in a different place, this night bus trip is worth every mile.
If Uganda is your first stop, just ask around Kampala for where the bus stations are. Buy your ticket at least a day in advance and get ready for your next adventure to Kigali!
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